Monday, February 20, 2017

Carpet Cleaning by Carpet Care and Repair of Utah

How do I choose the best Carpet Cleaner in Utah?

Is there a difference in Carpet Cleaning Methods?

What questions should I ask on the phone when I'm searching for a Carpet Cleaner?


How do I choose the best Carpet Cleaner in Utah?
The best way I have found to select a quality company is through references and referrals. If you do not have a friend or family member that can give you a reference or referral go online and do a google search and check their online reviews. Our company has been around for over 25 years and our number 1 goal is client satisfaction. If a client is not satisfied with our work we rush back to their home and resolve the situation immediately. If at the time they are not still 100% thrilled with our service we just refund their money, no questions asked. In 25 years we have refunded 3 clients and they were all cat urine jobs, we are very proud of this record.

Is there a difference in Carpet Cleaning Methods?
There are many different methods of carpet cleaning but the "The Only" method that is endorsed by the carpet manufactures and the IICRC is HWE or Hot Water Extraction or better known to the public as "Steam Cleaning." Any other method of carpet cleaning will void any warranties given to you by the manufacturer that made your carpet. Dry cleaning has been proven to put to much agitation on the fibers and only gets your carpets 50% clean as HWE.

What questions should I ask on the phone when I'm searching for a Carpet Cleaner?
1. What is your reputation in the carpet cleaning business and can you give me any credible references?
2. How long have you been in business?
3.What are your credentials and do you hold any certifications by the IICRC (Institute of Inspection, Cleaning, Restoration Certification.
4. What system do you use? Hot Water Extraction (HWE)?
5. Do you have a guarantee? And can you explain it in detail?

These questions are so important before you even get int pricing and if you are concerned about any answers you receive from these questions it should throw up a red flag. If you feel good about the responses you get but are not comfortable with the price, have the company come out and give you a "no pressure" quote. Make sure you explain you will not being doing the work that day and If they refuse to give a free quote than this company is not right for you!

March Blog Special.

Call our offices by March 15th and receive 40% off Carpet Cleaning only. 

Just say 40% Blog Special when you call, Its that simple!

801-716-0363

www.carpetcareandrepair.com

Thursday, December 4, 2014

Pet Urine Removal Carpet Care and Repair of Utah 801-716-0363

Pet urine can cause permanent damage to your floors and fabrics. It can also create an unhealthy indoor environment. When urine is first deposited onto a floor or fabric, it has a pH of about 5 or 6, which is on the acid side of the pH Scale. It is easier to remove right then when it is fresh. Once it dries it turns “alkaline” or to a high pH between 10 to12 on the scale and becomes more difficult to remove. The warm acid state of the urine offers a perfect breeding ground for bacteria, which begin to flourish almost immediately. In this original acid state the urine begins to oxidize and react with the carpet to create a color change, which will become permanent if the urine is not removed immediately. Some of this color change can be attributed to the strong ammonia that forms as the urine passes through bacterial and chemical change. If left for days or weeks, depending on the fabric or floor type, it will change the dye structure, therefore causing permanent staining. Even if the soluble deposits are removed, the damage to the dye structure may already be done.
There are two sources of odors associated with urine. The first comes from bacteria that grow abundantly in dark warm places with a never-ending food source. A pet can feed the bacteria daily! This bacteria growth and breakdown of the urine creates amino acids. These complex organic compounds will often work deep into the fibers to a point of becoming part of the fiber. This can present a challenging situation. The waste materials and gases from the decomposing urine create an unpleasant odor. When dried urine is remoistened, it gives off an ammonia gas. If smelled once it is seldom forgotten.
The second source of odor is chemical odor that is present even when the bacteria have been killed. This explains the reason that more than sanitizing is necessary toneutralize odors from urine. Urine also presents additional odor problems when the relative humidity is high. The salts and crystals that are left behind as the urine dries are hydrophilic and draw water to them. Dried urine is often easy to smell in the humid months because the salts attract the moisture, the moisture evaporates putting out a greater proportion of odorous ammonia gas. You must get rid of the urine salts in and under the carpet to get rid of the odor. That’s why cleaning existing urine spots WILL NOT remove any associated odor. In fact, it could INCREASE the odor in the air space for a temporary period of time.

Do-It-Yourself Pet Stain Removal
The best tool to have is a small one gallon wet vac or small spot removal machine. A small wet vac can be purchased for under $30.00. We recommend a small machine because the more convenient, the more likely you are to get it out for an accident.
If you can get the urine up while it is fresh you will have a better chance of 100% removal. Simply suck the urine right out of the carpet. Then apply some of Carpet Care and Repair’s Avenge and let it sit a few minutes. Then pour a measuring cup of warm water on the spot and suck it out to rinse the carpet. Always dry the carpet as much as possible and never scrub or rub the carpet. This will distort the face fiber and break down the fiber protection and allow for easy staining.
If the urine spot is older than 24 hours, apply Carpet Care and Repair’s Avenge, rinse the carpet with warm water and wet vac. Then you can mix 1 part white distilled vinegar with 2 parts water and apply it to the spot, rinse with warm water, and wet vac. Do not use the vinegar on fresh spots as the acid from the vinegar can not counter the acid from fresh urine. The vinegar works best after 24 hours when the urine has become alkaline.


Monday, December 1, 2014

What is a Certified Carpet Cleaner?


In shopping for carpet cleaning, you may have noticed the word “certified” being used in advertising. You may have seen a logo being used to feature certification. What does this mean to you as a client? Would you be surprised to learn that most carpet cleaning companies have no formal training? That they are not required to be licensed? That there is no requirement to have any certification whatsoever? Is training and certification important? After all, isn’t carpet cleaning a “menial” task that anyone can perform?

Actually, a carpet cleaning professional is working with one of your most valuable assets.  Should it be trusted with just anyone? Unfortunately, our industry is full of “rogues” that only care about how much money they can get from you, and nothing about the life of your carpeting. They do not care about the industry in which they work.

Have you ever noticed that in many states, air conditioning companies, plumbers, and pest control companies are required to be licensed? Not so for carpet cleaners. Fortunately for you, and for me, there are many fine people in the carpet cleaning industry that realize the standard must be raised. Those of us in that process help to police our own industry. In order to do this, associations and certification organizations were created.

One such organization is called the IICRC (Institute of Inspection, Cleaning, and Restoration Certification). This organization provides certification courses and exams for the carpet cleaning industry. By attending these courses, carpet cleaners are taught about fiber identification, carpet construction, cleaning chemistry, cleaning methods, and professionalism.

These valuable concepts equip them to choose the proper procedures for cleaning your carpet. The certified firm is on the cutting edge of technology and change in our industry. A certified firm knows the right way to apply cleaning procedures and chemistry. A certified firm is working together with other certified firms to raise the standard of carpet cleaning in general, therefore providing you with a higher quality product.

Professional Carpet Cleaning Services, Carpet Care and Repair in Pleasant Grove Utah 801-716-0363



Friday, November 7, 2014

Carpet Care and Repair of Utah 801-716-0363

When it comes to getting your home or business to look as clean as possible, the team at Carpet Care and Repair can give you Excellent Service for an reasonable price. Let us start with an efficient, thorough cleaning of your carpets, which will lead to a healthy home environment and clean floors that look as good as new. We can also provide a wide variety of carpet repairs such as burn marks, bleach spots, carpet re-stretching, carpet re-installation, small flood damage, house pet problems and so much more. Our cleaning experts can also provide you with many other services including tile and grout cleaning, area rug cleaning, and upholstery cleaning. The CCR team doesn't mind doing the dirty work, as we are well-known for being Utah’s pet urine removal specialists, using our tested five-step process. Carpet Care and Repair is based in Pleasant Grove, but we are able to offer all of these services to homes and businesses in Salt Lake City, Provo, Sandy, Draper, Lehi, Sugar House, Park City, Orem, and several other areas in the Wasatch Front. Call the professionals at Carpet Care and Repair today and ensure that your cleaning comes with the service and care it deserves. 801-716-0363

How Important is Vacuuming?

How important is vacuuming in the proper maintenance of carpeting?  A professional carpet cleaner will tell you that an ongoing frequent vacuuming schedule is an essential part of preserving the appearance and life span of any carpet.  However, it’s important for you to know that any professional cleaner who cleans your carpet should still pre-vacuum before cleaning.  Excuses why some don’t range from “There’s not enough time” to “The suction on my cleaning extractor is powerful enough that I don’t need to” to “It doesn’t really make that much difference.”

The truth of the matter is that vacuuming prior to any cleaning is a critical step that should never be skipped.  There’s an old saying in the carpet cleaning industry: “It’s easier to remove dust than mud.”  You can put this saying to a test by taking two pieces of loose-weave fabric and running one of them under water and wringing it out.  Sprinkle a bit of talc or baby powder on both pieces, then try sucking the powder through the back of the fabric with your vacuum.  You’ll be able to suck the powder through the dry piece but not the wet piece.  On the wet piece, the powder will cake and stick to the fabric fibers.

This same principle holds true in carpet cleaning.  Most dry dust and loose soil lifts out of the carpet during pre-vacuuming but, once dampened, clings to the carpet fibers.  Without exception, dry vacuuming should be the first step in any kind of carpet cleaning.  Further, professionals should have a more powerful vacuum cleaner than you do in order to remove as much dry particulate soil as possible before wet cleaning.  When we clean carpet, any dust that doesn’t come out with our dry vacuuming is taken care of by the professional-grade cleaning chemicals we use.  If you have questions about caring for your carpet, please give us a call.  We’re always happy to talk with you.


Wednesday, November 5, 2014

What are the different treatment options with pet urine removal?








Superficial-
When animal odors are present in carpet or upholstery but there is little or no urine contamination - we apply a bonding/encapsulating deodorizer according to directions. We then proceed with carpet cleaning as usual. The bonding/encapsulating deodorizer will absorb odors on contact. Odors deeper in the tufts will be reached as we groom our prespray into the carpet.

Light-Apply an Enzyme Producing Deodorizing liberally to visible stains and other locations where we have detected urine with our High-Intensity Ultra Violet Light. We allow as much dwell time as practical. Effective dwell time can range from 20 minutes to a couple of hours for light contamination. Our Enzyme Producing Deodorizer can be working while we set up our truck mount carpet cleaning equipment. Our carpet cleaning service can clean the affected areas using the bonding/encapsulating deodorizer in our prespray as described above.

Moderate-As the extent of contamination increases, so do the choices and the necessity for complex treatments increases. The basic process will be described first. Then we'll discuss additional steps that may be used. We prespray any  stains we have located with our High-Intensity Ultra Violet Light using a Urine Pre-treatment. This is an acid side product that breaks down the alkaline salts. For best results, we make a liberal application that will reach not only the stains on the surface but dried urine residues in the backing. We allow the urine pre-treatment at least 15 minutes dwell time. If all the carpet is being cleaned at this time, we go ahead with our carpet cleaning now. We include a step to work your pretreatment into the face fibers.
After completing the rinse and extract step, we saturate contaminated areas with Bonding/Encapsulating Deodorizer. For the best result, the Bonding/Encapsulating Deodorizer must come in contact with all the source of the odor. If the urine has reached the backing, the cushion and the subfloor then the Bonding/Encapsulating Deodorizer must also reach there. Be aware that the size of the stain on the surface will be significantly smaller than the area to which the urine has spread. As the urine reaches the backing it spreads horizontally before soaking through. On reaching the subfloor, the liquid again spreads laterally in addition to soaking into the flooring. What appears to be a 6" stain on the surface may have expanded to several square feet by the time it has penetrated the floor. We do not skimp on the application of the Bonding/Encapsulating Deodorizer. It must reach every place the urine went.
We use our Sub-Surface Extraction Tool to extract moisture from the spots we've treated. We thoroughly flush all contamination from the area by allowing additional water to flow to the spot while continuing to extract with the Sub-Surface Extraction Tool.

Severe-For complete odor removal in a severely affected carpet, an extensive treatment is required. Often a pet will "go" in the same general area for a period of a year or two or more before remediation is started. Considering the volume of urine deposited over time you can be sure that the cushion and the floor have been saturated.
Given the extent of contamination, we'll cover the steps necessary for complete odor removal. You and I can decide if it will be possible to skip any steps and still achieve an acceptable result.
1.Disengage the carpet. Turn back the carpet to expose the effected area. Some furniture moving may be required. The pad should be removed and thrown away. Inspect the floor. Wood floors should be cleaned followed by an application of your Enzyme Producing Deodorizer or they may be sanded. Concrete floors can be cleaned by wet mopping with Enzyme Producing Deodorizer. Floors should then be sealed with a pigmented shellac or a clear acrylic. Extend the application of the sealer at least 1' beyond contamination. While the carpet is turned back, we examine the tackless strip, baseboards and walls. Any contaminated materials must be removed and replaced or cleaned and possibly sealed. After the sealer dries replace the pad.
2. We treat both the front and back side of the carpet with a solution of your Urine Pre-treatment. Allow 15 minutes or more dwell time.
3.Extract affected areas, both front and back. This will clean the carpets including removing urine.
4. Reinstall the carpet.
5. Saturate spray the carpet with your Enzyme Producing Deodorizer. Allow the solution to dwell 20 minutes to 24 hours depending upon the severity of the odor. For best results, extract out the Enzyme Producing deodorizer. Drying time will range from 24 to 48 hours. Ventilate. The final result will be evident about 24 hours after the carpets dry.
6. Clean and deodorize other surfaces that may have absorbed odors over time. If male animals were in the home, check for urine on vertical surfaces such as walls and furniture. A Bonding/Encapsulating Deodorizer can be used on upholstery, in wall cleaning solutions and for many other surfaces. Change the air return filters in the HVAC system. Check to see if the air handling system could be redistributing odors. If so, then the ductwork may need cleaning as well.

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Thursday, April 3, 2014

Carpet Selection Guide Carpet Care and Repair Utah


Choose your carpet carefully
The following information will help you get familiar with carpet terms and definitions so you can make an educated decision on selecting your next carpet.
Pile Designs
There are several terms relating to the manufacturing process which need to be understood before we actually discuss carpet pile designs.
  1. Gauge
The distance between the needles on a tufting machine. The gauge is expressed in fractions of an inch, and refers to the number of needles which are positioned across the width of the tufting machine.
  1. Pitch
The distance between the stitches made by the needles (the distance which the backing material travels before the needle inserts the next tuft). Pitch is expressed in terms of the number of tufts per inch.
  1. Density
The closeness of the pile yarns. Density refers to the closeness of the pile yarns, and is an indication of both gauge and pitch. It is measured by the number of ounces per yard. Generally, the higher the density, the better the quality of the carpet.
  1. Face Weight
The weight, expressed in the number of ounces per yard of fiber extending above the primary backing.
These factors (gauge, pitch, density and face weight) all have direct effects upon each of the others. For instance, if the density increases with the pile height remaining the same, the face weight will increase. Or if the pile height increases with the density remaining the same, the face weight will increase.
The rest of this information will be based on Cut-Pile designs (59% of the current market), Loop-Pile designs (28% of the market), and Cut and Loop-Pile combination designs (13% of the market).

CUT-PILE DESIGNS
  1. Saxony Pile
A saxony configuration will generally have a pile height of about three quarters of an inch. The main distinction of a saxony will be in the fact that the pile is made up of twisted, heat-set yarns with sufficient density to cause them to stand upright to foot traffic. Ninety percent of the expensive carpets made today are of the saxony pile.
  1. Plush or Velvet
The plush design is dense enough to remain upright to normal traffic. The major distinguishing trait of a plush is that there is little or no twist set in the face yarns which comprise the pile. This introduces a smooth, uniform texture on the face of the plush or velvet carpet. This "velvet-plush" carpet can be sensitive to high temperatures in the cleaning solution, causing fiber distortion. Temperature settings should be turned down from the maximum settings.


  1. Shag Pile
This design has almost disappeared from the current market, though since a number of shag carpets remain from the early seventies, it warrants some discussion. Generally, a shag carpet contains a pile height greater than one inch, but that pile height must be coupled with so little density as to create a casual, random-lay effect so that the sides of the yarns are exposed to the foot traffic rather than the tips which are exposed on most other carpet configurations.
  1. Splush (short-shag or mini-shag)
This carpet is halfway between the shag and the plush. The pile height is usually about three quarters of an inch, with a density which is insufficient to cause the yarn ends to stand upright to foot traffic. Although the density is greater than that of a shag, the same "random lay" effect is still apparent.
  1. Frieze(free-say)
This design is composed of very tightly twisted yarns that give a rough, nubby appearance.
Grass-pile
Grass-pile carpets are usually made of slit-film olefin which actually simulates grass. It comes in a variety of colors.

Loop-Pile Designs
  1. Level Loop-Pile
This design consists of uniformly level tufts in an uncut or loop-pile configuration. Commercial quality carpet is often of the level-loop configuration with high density but low pile height.
  1. Multi-Level Loop-Pile
This configuration is also known as "high-low" pile carpet. It is formed by increasing tension on the yarn during tufting, which forms patterns with high and low loops.


Cut & Loop Pile Designs
  1. Sculptured Saxony
Sculptured saxony consists of higher, cut-pile yarns in the saxony tradition which are contrasted in texture by lower, loop-pile yarns which remain uncut.
  1. Sculptured Shag
This design is similar to the sculptured Saxony though is composed of higher, less dense cut-pile yarns in a shag configuration, contrasted by lower loops which remain uncut.
  1. Level Cut-loop
This technique is used to create a wide range of patterns using cut and loop piles of the same height.

Fiber Types: Pros & Cons
There are many different types of fiber used to make carpet. In this section we are going to give you the PROS & CONS of the four most popular fibers, Nylon, Polyester, Olefin, and Wool.
Nylon: Pros
  • Good Elasticity – Nylon will stretch up to 33% of its length and still regain its original shape. This is very important in heavy traffic areas where furniture may be dragged across the carpet.
  • Very Abrasion Resistant – It even surpasses wool. Many manufacturers offer wear guaranties.
  • Static Resistant – Not its ancestry, but today’s fibers do very well.
  • Heat Sets Well – When properly heat set, nylon retains its crimp, twist, and dye extremely well.
  • Good resiliency – Nylon can be crushed for long periods and still regain its original shape.
  • Non-Absorbent – Nylon dries quickly since it will absorb less than 8% of its weight in H20.
  • Mildew Resistant – Nylon provides no food source, but mildew can grow on it if another food source is available. Notice the damage that can be done under an over watered potted plant.
  • Nylon responds very well to most professional cleaning methods and treatments.
Nylon: Cons
  • Nylon is almost always acid dyed. It is rarely solution dyed, so it can have problems with bleaching, fading, urine reactions, etc.

Polyester’s popularity seems to go up and down like a roller coaster. Because it’s relatively inexpensive to produce, manufacturers are regularly reintroducing this fiber to the carpet industry. Although it has some excellent qualities, and is a great fiber for clothing, it does have some limiting factors when used in carpet.
Polyester: Pros
  • Since polyester does not have dye sites, it is usually dyed with a disperse dye or solution dye method which makes it very resistant to bleaching, fading and soil dye reactions.
  • Stain Resistant – This applies only to water based stains.
  • Low Absorbency – Quick drying
Polyester: Cons
  • Polyester is difficult to dye and usually must be solution dyed which limits the variety.
  • It is not resistant to oily stains, and in fact an oily spill or spot left without proper cleanup can oxidize and even chemically bond with and become part of the fiber. You need to know that some of these spots just won’t come out.
  • Crimp Loss – Early polyester was a mess. A new polyester carpet was fuller, fluffier and more luxurious than anything on the market. Six-month-old polyester was an owner’s nightmare. Due to loss of twist and crimp, long strait fibers were left in the traffic areas, which caused matting and tangling and destroyed the original look of the carpet. Definite improvements have been made by heat setting and using finer yarns, but crimp loss can still be a problem. This is a characteristic of polyester, not a defect.


Olefin is a very versatile carpet fiber. It is used in carpet backings (called polypropylene), face yarns and even astroturf. Olefin has become almost synonymous with one of its trade names “Herculon” a trademark owned by Hercules Corporation, a major manufacturer of olefin.
Olefin: Pros
  • Olefin is very moisture resistant. It will absorb only one tenth of 1% of its weight in water. This leads to some pros and some cons.
  • Very difficult to stain.
  • Great for outdoor applications (stadium or pool).
  • Chemical Resistant – Most chemicals and bleaches won’t damage it at all.
  • Solution dyeing makes it resistant to fading.
  • Lightweight – It is the only common carpet fiber that will float on water ( Except celluloid).
  • Strong – It wears well except for resiliency factor (see cons).
  • It has good cleanability and stain release (Except oil/petroleum-based stains – see cons).
Olefin: Cons
  • Olefin is not a resilient fiber. When crushed it does not regain its original shape easily. Traffic areas tend to lie down, showing “apparent soiling”. Furniture marks can be permanent reminders to the owner of where his furniture used to be.
  • It is a very heat sensitive fiber. Its melting point is around 300 degrees but damage can occur at lower temperatures.
  • Olefin can be damaged by Friction – Even dragging a heavy piece of furniture across an olefin carpet can cause permanent marks from the heat generated by friction.
  • Like polyester, extended exposure to oil-based soils may become permanent.
  • Olefin is very difficult to dye due to its low absorbency rate. It is almost always solution dyed.
  • Quite often, Olefin is in a glue-down situation, which creates a potential to brown from soil wicking from the base of the yarns due to incomplete soil removal. Over wetting and/or slow drying increases the likelihood.

 Wool comes from the fleece of sheep or lambs. This is one of the oldest fibers used by man, dating back over two thousand years. It is still one of the finest face yarns available for carpet. Wool is chemically made up of standard organic elements including sulfur, which accounts for the wool smell when it is damp.
Wool: Pros
  • Wool has excellent soil hiding capabilities. Wool will not exhibit or show soil as much as other fibers. The reason for this is that wool is an opaque fiber (as opposed to synthetics which are transparent) and wool doesn’t refract and reflect light like synthetics. The naturally dull appearance provided by the scales of the epidermis makes soil much less apparent to the human eye.
  • Wool is very strong, elastic and resilient. Wool face yarn in a well-constructed carpet will stand up to the heaviest traffic and still look beautiful (Notice the carpet in most casinos and finer hotel lobbies and hallways).
  • Natural crimp makes wool and excellent insulator.
  • Good Absorbency – This means that wool reacts well to a number of dye types and techniques. Keep in mind, this means easy staining also.
  • Soil Release – Wool responds very well to cleaning as moisture makes the fiber swell and release dirt.
  • Wool is naturally flame retardant.

Wool: Cons
  • Wool is a very expensive material. This arises mainly from the processing cost, the cleaning, and the preparation, etc., rather than the actual cost of the raw material.
  • Fiber Distortion – Wool is very prone to distortion by excess agitations such as jet streaks and wand marks. This is particularly pronounced when it happens under heated conditions.
  • Stains Easily – Due to its absorbency and ease of dyeing, wool is also easily stained by wine, Kool-Aid and other acid dyestuffs. Remember that absorbency is the same quality that makes wool so desirable as far as dye acceptance and obtaining the beautiful rich colors that you often find in wool carpets and oriental rugs.
  • Chemical Sensitivity – Wool is sensitive to alkaline chemicals above a pH of 9.5 after prolonged exposure. This exposure will tend to make wool brittle and discolor somewhat. This problem is sometimes referred to as “felting”. Wool is also very sensitive to chlorine bleach, such as Clorox, which is normally found in homes and grocery stores. Chlorine bleach will completely dissolve wool within a matter of minutes. The New Zealand Wool Bureau recommends water-based cleaning solutions with a pH not lower than 5.5 and not higher than 8 pH.
  • Staple Yarn – Fuzzing can be a source of problems because wool only comes as a staple yarn and excess agitation can cause that fuzzing effect.